Category: Male clothing > arming garments

Italian long gambeson

Italian long gambeson

Century: XIV, XV

CODE	Material	Standard ? × SPES products - technology & methods of manufacturing Machine-made standard - products with visible signs of using modern methods and tools in their production; e.g. visible outside and inside seams in clothing made with the use of a machine. Mixed standard - products with visible signs of using both modern and traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. main, inside seams in clothing are made with the use of a machine while outside stitches and details are sewn by hand. Hand-made standard - goods with visible signs of using only traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. all seams in clothing are sewn by hand. *NOTE. We always use high quality materials and fabrics while making our products - the above standards of their production are not related to the materials used.	Price
PMLR0380	Linen	Hand-made	490.00 EUR
PMLS0381	Linen	Mixed	195.00 EUR

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The Italian long gambeson is one of the longest in our collection. The look of our aketon derives from 14th century designs from Northern Italy. Our Italian medieval gambeson is put on through the head.

This model of medieval gambeson is closed with 2 tin buttons on the left side of the neck. It has a few forms of stitchings:
- zig-zag - at the top front and the top back
- horizontal - at the collar, on sleeves (from elbows up) and from waist down
- vertical stitchings on sleeves from elbows down

Moreover, this long gambeson at the bottom is ornamented with three horizontal stripes in a contrastive color. The brim is finished with decorative cut-outs.

NOTE - there is an option of modifying the thickness of amortization layers in this model of long gambeson. To customize this product, please contact our Sales Department before you place an order.

The Italian long gambeson has various levels of thickness in particular sections:
- sleeves - y1
- strengthening on shoulders and elbows - y2
- torso - y1
- strengthening on chest and back - y2
- collar - y1


More information on the thickness of the gambeson can be foundhere!
When you place an order, please choose one of the available colors. The table of colors can be found here.

A 14th century long gambeson of this type is available in standard sizes from XS to XXL or in custom size, fitted to individual needs for an additional 20% charge. To choose the proper size, please follow the chart below:

Size	Chest girth	Waist girth	Hips girth	Height
XS	84-92 cm	72-80 cm	88-96 cm	164-170 cm
S	92-100 cm	80-88 cm	96-104 cm	170-176 cm
M	100-108 cm	88-96 cm	104-112 cm	176-182 cm
L	108-116 cm	96-104 cm	112-120 cm	182-188 cm
XL	116-124 cm	104-112 cm	120-128 cm	188-194 cm
XXL	124-132 cm	112-120 cm	128-136 cm	194-200 cm
Custom	Individual measurements. Price + 20%.

Please write down the chosen size in additional information box when you place the order.

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Long gambeson from a fresco

Our Italian aketon is based on a battle depicted on a fresco in Castello di Avio, the castle in Trentino in Northern Italy. This piece of art probably comes from 1340-1350 and presents a group of fighting knights wearing long gambesons with visible zig-zag stitchings on torsos, with cut-outs at the bottom.
Some of them have decorative straps on the lower part of the gambesons which inspired us to design our Italian gambeson in a similar way.

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Features of the Italian long gambeson:

↪ one of the longest in our assortment
↪ based on 15th century Italian sources
↪ put on over the head, closed with two buttons on the side of the neck
↪ characteristic zigzag chest quilting
↪ lower part with characteristic horizontal stripes in a contrastive color, along with tongue-shaped cutout
↪ modifiable level of amortization
↪ standard size chart - from XS to XXL as well as custom measurements option

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Quilted tunic in the Middle Ages

Quilted tunic is a very broad term but often used with Early-medieval and later gambesons of loose-cut which are put on through the head. It applies to material findings and former iconography. The basic and probably most important source with various depictions of quilted tunics is The Morgan Bible, dated to the 13th century. It was our main source of inspiration while making the Early-medieval aketons.
This type of long gambeson was worn during battles and medieval tournaments together with other arming garments, e.g. a chain mail. Sometimes, to increase the level of protection, users stitched chain mail pieces between the layers of quilted tunics.
Later, long gambesons have undergone numerous changes. They started to be more fitted to body shape, closed with buttons or straps. These modifications have made a traditional quilted tunic look like a relic of the past but also as a symbol of their times. Among aketons, quilted clothing includes bonnets, hoods, legs, gloves, shin guards, and pants.

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The upgrading of SPES gambesons design

Currently, we are working on implementing to our assortment the upgraded versions of our well-known gambesons. Changes include:
- improving the functionality and mobility of our aketons
- layers’ thickness (check the chart with levels of amortization)
- directions and shape of stitchings
- minor changes in cut (for better fitting)
- and most of all, matching the gambesons to our six-levels size set: XS-XXL (NOTE: you can still order a custom-sized gambeson)

Therefore, you can be sure that upgraded SPES gambesons are even better suited to your needs. And if you have any questions about mentioned changes in any model, contact us - we will dispel the doubts!

To make each gambeson stand out even more, we gave them unique names. From now, TYPE 11 is named Italian long gambeson.