Category: Male clothing > arming garments

Arming doublet

Arming doublet

Century: XV

CODE	Material	Standard ? × SPES products - technology & methods of manufacturing Machine-made standard - products with visible signs of using modern methods and tools in their production; e.g. visible outside and inside seams in clothing made with the use of a machine. Mixed standard - products with visible signs of using both modern and traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. main, inside seams in clothing are made with the use of a machine while outside stitches and details are sewn by hand. Hand-made standard - goods with visible signs of using only traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. all seams in clothing are sewn by hand. *NOTE. We always use high quality materials and fabrics while making our products - the above standards of their production are not related to the materials used.	Price
PMLR0470	Linen	Hand-made	450.00 EUR
PMLS0469	Linen	Mixed	169.00 EUR

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An arming doublet is dedicated for the reenactors of the 14th and the 15th century . It is shorter than standard gambesons but it bears similar protective features.

The design of this model is very universal. It will work well as a part of fighting gear but also as a piece of civil clothing.

Our arming doublet has a waist seam and is laced in front in a so-called overcast method. It has a high, V-shaped collar. The doublet’s lower edge has small, “A”-shaped cutouts in front and on sides.

On each side, this arming doublet has points for mounting hose. There are 7 pairs of them. In comparison with doublet armor, this model is slightly longer.

The stuffing of an arming doublet is as follows:
- Y7b - on chest
- Y7a - on the rest of the jacket
You will find more information on the stuffing of arming garments here!

Our arming doublet is available in a full range of colors - you will find them here and 6 sizes:

Size	Chest girth	Waist girth	Hips girth	Height
XS	84-92 cm	72-80 cm	88-96 cm	164-170 cm
S	92-100 cm	80-88 cm	96-104 cm	170-176 cm
M	100-108 cm	88-96 cm	104-112 cm	176-182 cm
L	108-116 cm	96-104 cm	112-120 cm	182-188 cm
XL	116-124 cm	104-112 cm	120-128 cm	188-194 cm
XXL	124-132 cm	112-120 cm	128-136 cm	194-200 cm
Custom	Individual measurements. Price + 20%.

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Arming doublet in sources

The examples of arming doublets from the 14th and 15th centuries can be found in the famous Gladiatoria (or MS German Quarto 16) from 1435-40. Currently the book is stored in the Jagiellonian Library in Krakow, Poland.
The pieces of clothing visible on the pages of the manuscript (e.g. folio 54v, 55r, 55v) are closed in an overcast lacing method, have high collars in V-shape, and their bottom part is attached to hose.

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Basic features of an arming doublet

- shorter than standard gambesons but longer than the version with leather straps
- with a waist seam
- 7 pairs of holes at the bottom
- cutouts on sides and in front
- a late-medieval clothing
- universal design (for civilians and fighters)
- closed in an overcast stitching method
- available in 6 sizes (XS-XXL)
- modifiable

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Gladiatoria - the remarkable work on historical fencing

Gladiatoria is a German treatise teaching historical fencing. The mentioned MS German Quarto 16 is a part of a bigger series containing a few manuscripts of similar style and theme.

The treatise is based on the tradition of Johannes Liechtenauer but it does not follow him directly.
Gladiatoriapresents fighting techniques with the use of various weapons.

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A doublet - from an under clothing to regular arming garment

A doublet is a tight piece of an outfit worn on a shirt but under other layers of clothing. It was made of both linen and wool. This unique example of men’s wear from its’ beginning was much shorter than gambesons or cottes - it reached the hips. Usually it had long sleeves and it is typical for the fashion of the turn of the medieval and renaissance periods (from the 14th to 17th century).
A doublet had openings for attaching the hose. It could be buttoned up or closed with an overcast lacing method.

In the 15th century the length of doublet was modified and from this moment we can mention a separate model - known commonly as an arming doublet. In comparison with the standard doublet, new kaftans had a role similar to gambeson. Due to their design, they were shorter and lighter than popular aketons.
In this time sleeves were also modified. The characteristic puffed sleeves appeared which, apart from the aesthetic considerations, protected the arms against the press of pauldrons. The collar also grew. In the new form, it became more protective.
In the next years, doublets became narrower and adjacent to the body, underlining the body shape. Slim sleeves and tightened waist made the male profile much more dignified and the chest more prominent.

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The upgrading of SPES gambesons design

Currently, we are working on implementing to our assortment the upgraded versions of our well-known medieval padded armors. Changes include:
- improving the functionality and mobility of our aketons
- layers’ thickness (check the chart with levels of amortization)
- directions and shape of stitchings
- minor changes in cut (for better fitting)
- and most of all, matching the gambesons to our six-levels size set: XS-XXL (NOTE: you can still order a custom-sized gambeson)
Therefore, you can be sure that upgraded SPES gambesons are even better suited to your needs. And if you have any questions about mentioned changes in any model, contact us - we will dispel the doubts!

To make each gambeson stand out even more, we gave them unique names. From now on, the Arming doublet type 2 is named Arming doublet.